Ruebin's job requires him to travel a lot. I heard from him a few weeks ago. He travels worldwide so we sometimes we don't hear from him for awhile.
John
Sorry folks by choice I have little time for recreational internet and Like John says I do travel frequently.
Over the weekend I will address each question that has not yet answered by me or someone else.
Right now if you see post #17 from me, what I had written in italics, basically I attempted to post photos in a step by step in regards to the tape up front but the forum mashed all the pics and posts together and there was nothing I could to to keep them separate and coherent with their corresponding text. Frustrating, so I abandoned ship, losing some of my photos since then.
So I will shove what photos I still have into this post and hope it makes sense.
In short the 3 mil up front is just so awesome but it is a pain to clean and gets gummy faster but there is never any issue with hairs sticking to the front or lining anything up and after about 6 hours it is as undetectable as glue. Because it is glue in tape format.
So the compromise is
3-mil up front with
walker no shine behind it -
but not in that order:
photo 1.) Apply walker no shine contours to the base (I use CC) about 1/2" from the front edge of the lace.
2.) I also cut a CC in half and get the rest of the perimeter on either side - still about 1/2" from the front/side edges.
3.) Then attach the 3-mil (after peeling the backs off from the Walker) on top of the walker but all the way up to the edge. The red arrows show the Walker tape that was applied first.
The lace only has 1/2" of the 3 mil tape touching it. The scalp will have ALL of the 3 mil touching it.
This makes clean up a breeze as when releasing with 99% all of the tape stays on the scalp except for a little bit of that 3MIL that was right up to the edge of the front lace. I get an easy 7 days but if I had the time and wherewithal I would change up Thursdays and Sunday, but not completely necessary.
The rest of this will most likely seem incoherent especially with no photos but here goes...
remove all of the tape backing (only the 3mil backing should remain at this stage of things - this completes the first removal of all backings as there are no backings on the tape -just totally exposed tapes).
Now put backings back on:
Put half strips of backing on the two sides of the already attached tape on the base/front leaving about 4" of center tape exposed. (I use three of the half strips on each side). I attach these strips perpendicular to the way the tape was applied which gives me an easy spot to grab to peel it off once the piece is half stuck on. This because being longer it hangs over the tape on the inner side - where the red arrows are in photo 3. Not now but soon you are going you want to peel the backing off from the inside or back from the hair line - NOT STARTING from the hair line. As the 3MIL is not easy to work with.
but backing up... I do this 4" exposed so that I can line the back up with only a small sticky area up front to contend with if I need to move the piece around.
So the attachment:
Line up the back and sides and press/tack the 4" sticky front into place and flip the back part of the piece forward like an open car hood and apply tape to the back and perimeter of the scalp, remove those perpendicular side strips from the piece and complete the attachment - from front to back. Your vision may be partially blocked having the piece flipped forward.
There is not really any touch up on the front front because the glue/tape is totally lined up. I may press powder if there is a little shine.
Notes: releasing tape attachments does add a little more wear and tear on the lace base = fraying - so you really need to add more releasing agent and never pull the piece off.
Also the 3 mil has a tendency to prefer sticking to the tape backing instead of the lace itself and since backing is removed twice you need to make sure the original application of the 3 mil on top of the walker is solid - use some pressure and always peel the backing as much as possible starting from the center/sides of the piece - never start peeling away from the front.
Thanks reubin!
Curious though, When using tape. It's impossible to get all of the lace pressed into the tape, even in your picture I see one or two mm of lace that hangs over the tape in places. Isn't that lace visible when you comb your hair back?
OK I have more pics regarding the attachment - pics which are missing from the above post that hopefully help clear up my babble.
PHOTO 1.) The perpendicular re attachment of backing to only expose a little of the tape up front for initial attachment - after lining up everything tack down that front and flip the back forward, so that you can tape the rest of your scalp (back and sides)
PHOTO 2.) Shows the tape how it is laid, which really is just to have a 1/2" of 3IML up front, making for a stronger attachment and easier clean up since only a small amt of 3MIL is actually attached to the base
Once the scalp's back and sides are taped (I use walker no shine contours) it is time to fully attach the rest of the piece (only the very front has been tacked down while you worked on taping the the scalp - the piece is flipped forward somewhat covering your eyes), peel off the perpendicular strips starting from the red arrows on the inside.
DARTS
OK in another post some were talking about that maybe Ben Affleck or other stars have discovered a secret type of piece that is totally lifelike and undetectable. I would think this is not the case and as other have argued these stars have an endless supply of money and an on hand stylist - especially for when in public and for photo shoots.
SO, with all of this money they are probably able to order all human hair, baby hair up front, perfectly bleached knots and ventilation and with the advice of stylists helping with density and color and once the PIECES are received the stylist can tweak the color and cut, it's their job, whew that as a long run on sentence, but you get the picture. I would also guess that once a piece gets a little ratty (or was made like crap) they toss it and have another one waiting in the wings - the cost of doing business, who cares they're rich, right?
If I were super rich and someone was doing my cutins (cutting in a bunch of pieces all at once) I would change pieces every month.
One of the things I feel REALLY REALLY helps with the front hairline is cutting darts where necessary so that the piece can mold to your head - like a glove. No more lift.
Unfortunately no one can actually make lace that is a molded curve - sorry but it is usually pretty much flat even with the factory darts.
CAUTION - cutting your own darts like I do speeds up fraying since there is more "edge". I do not sew the darts "closed" with invisible thread - I tried it once but the thread came undone a close up look revealed the "stitches" (who knew I split my head open riding my bike when I was 9?) and cleaning a permanently curved piece might make the piece last even less - although I am not sure.
PHOTO 3.) A brand new piece - front lace not yet trimmed - after trimming the front I will cut 1 or 2 darts, maybe just on one side or in the center - I prefer one dart as the front will last longer so I pick a good spot - usually on one side above one of the eyebrows - or dead center.
A and B will be joined during the tape process and this will produce a really nice curve. On release the darts are open and free.
PHOTO 4.) What the piece looks like before attachment, the darts are pretty much invisible and there is a nice curve. At this point I will peel off the tape and attach the perpendicular strips (like in photo 1&2 here)
PHOTO 5.) Curve
In closing I think the guys who don't mind spending more $ and perhaps a little more time will go through this little extra in order to get a really good fit. I am rough with the piece and only release with 99% and clean with 99%. I just never want any oily solvents on my lace.
Honestly the only extra I am putting out is the need to buy pieces a little more frequently than I used to. The time to cut and attach and clean is the same.
I kind of do something similar but in reverse. After I put the tapes on the base.. I leave the front alone.. I than star to peel the backing off a little bit. but than put them back down.. this way they are easier to remove later. I only take the backing off at the very back center.. I line up the piece where i want and tack down the back.. Now you can flip the piece up forward standing in front of the mirror and have a clear view.. Than i remove two more tape backings on each side, tack it down,, flip it back up.. remove the next set of tapes.. etc.. going towards the front.. Than when the base is completely attached.. if u are using tape for the front u can now remove the backing from the front and tack it down. or u can glue in ur front hairline.
another method i use i squirt a little alcohol on my scalp and the tape and just position the unit with all the tape backings off from the start.
Getting ready to order a couple new units and want to try iLace. Curious as to the benefits of getting the perimeter in French or Swiss lace vs just going all iLace. I get why to do it in the front...just not the perimeter. Appreciate any thoughts.
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