Dino,

It's rather simply actually. Basically what I do, is use a Demi Permanent color (usually Redken's Shades EQ - liquid or the cream) and formulate an ash color 2 to 3 levels lighter than the hair piece. I let it process for 10-15 minutes. Rinse, shampoo and condition. End result: Hair color that is non damaging and LASTS.

It's about using the right tool for the application. Using 40 volume developer and permanent color does cause the color molecule to form faster, but in doing so it also makes it form too fast for any longevity and in turn activates all of the alkaline agent in the color (be it ammonia or a substitute) cause further damage which leads to brittle hair and faster color fading. You could paint you house with a nail polish brush too but why? Right tool for right job and results can be stellar. But hey what do I know, I just make a really good living doing it.