OK I have more pics regarding the attachment - pics which are missing from the above post that hopefully help clear up my babble.

PHOTO 1.) The perpendicular re attachment of backing to only expose a little of the tape up front for initial attachment - after lining up everything tack down that front and flip the back forward, so that you can tape the rest of your scalp (back and sides)

PHOTO 2.) Shows the tape how it is laid, which really is just to have a 1/2" of 3IML up front, making for a stronger attachment and easier clean up since only a small amt of 3MIL is actually attached to the base

Once the scalp's back and sides are taped (I use walker no shine contours) it is time to fully attach the rest of the piece (only the very front has been tacked down while you worked on taping the the scalp - the piece is flipped forward somewhat covering your eyes), peel off the perpendicular strips starting from the red arrows on the inside.

DARTS

OK in another post some were talking about that maybe Ben Affleck or other stars have discovered a secret type of piece that is totally lifelike and undetectable. I would think this is not the case and as other have argued these stars have an endless supply of money and an on hand stylist - especially for when in public and for photo shoots.

SO, with all of this money they are probably able to order all human hair, baby hair up front, perfectly bleached knots and ventilation and with the advice of stylists helping with density and color and once the PIECES are received the stylist can tweak the color and cut, it's their job, whew that as a long run on sentence, but you get the picture. I would also guess that once a piece gets a little ratty (or was made like crap) they toss it and have another one waiting in the wings - the cost of doing business, who cares they're rich, right?

If I were super rich and someone was doing my cutins (cutting in a bunch of pieces all at once) I would change pieces every month.

One of the things I feel REALLY REALLY helps with the front hairline is cutting darts where necessary so that the piece can mold to your head - like a glove. No more lift.

Unfortunately no one can actually make lace that is a molded curve - sorry but it is usually pretty much flat even with the factory darts.

CAUTION - cutting your own darts like I do speeds up fraying since there is more "edge". I do not sew the darts "closed" with invisible thread - I tried it once but the thread came undone a close up look revealed the "stitches" (who knew I split my head open riding my bike when I was 9?) and cleaning a permanently curved piece might make the piece last even less - although I am not sure.


PHOTO 3.) A brand new piece - front lace not yet trimmed - after trimming the front I will cut 1 or 2 darts, maybe just on one side or in the center - I prefer one dart as the front will last longer so I pick a good spot - usually on one side above one of the eyebrows - or dead center.

A and B will be joined during the tape process and this will produce a really nice curve. On release the darts are open and free.

PHOTO 4.) What the piece looks like before attachment, the darts are pretty much invisible and there is a nice curve. At this point I will peel off the tape and attach the perpendicular strips (like in photo 1&2 here)

PHOTO 5.) Curve


In closing I think the guys who don't mind spending more $ and perhaps a little more time will go through this little extra in order to get a really good fit. I am rough with the piece and only release with 99% and clean with 99%. I just never want any oily solvents on my lace.

Honestly the only extra I am putting out is the need to buy pieces a little more frequently than I used to. The time to cut and attach and clean is the same.